Mainland Birding - Chiriqui Grande

We had a long day full of birds in nice weather while we were hiking the low lands and enjoying great sea views.

At noon we had a really nice surprise when we found the Boat-billed Heron. We saw two in different perches by the naked eye, but when we looked with our binoculars we saw a third one, behind one of the other two. It was great. We stayed there watching those calm and quiet birds for a while. Then in flew another one, then another, then another… and like that over 10 of them landed. They were perching in the tree behind the one we were watching and then flew to another tree where we could see most of the group “disperse” in two trees next to one another.

In the afternoon we had a perfect view of a couple of King Vultures flying in circles over us. We wondered if we were smelling bad, but the truth is at that point we had been exploring a lot and maybe we were attractive to a vulture. Anyway, it was great for us to have an opportunity to see those majestic birds for a while.

The highlights for the day:

White-crowned Parrots
Laughing Falcon
Green-breasted Mango
Pied Puffbird
Boat-billed Heron
King Vulture
Bat Falcon



FAMILY & COMMON NAME

Cracidae: Gray-headed Chachalaca

Fregatidae: Magnificent Frigatebird

Phalacrocoracidae: Neotropic Cormorant

Ardeidae: Great Egret, Boat-billed Heron

Threskiornithidae: Green Ibis

Cathartidae: Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture, King Vulture

Accipitridae: Roadside Hawk

Falconidae: Laughing Falcon, Bat Falcon, Crested Caracara

Rallidae: White-throated Crake, Gray-necked Wood-rail, Common Moorhen

Jacanidae: Northern Jacana

Scolopacidae: Solitary Sandpiper

Columbidae: Pale-vented Pigeon

Psittacidae: Blue-headed Parrot, White-crowned Parrot, Red-lored Parrot

Cuculidae: Squirrel cuckoo, Groove-billed Ani

Apodidae: White-collared Swift

Trochilidae: Purple-crowned Fairy, Green-breasted Mango, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird

Alcedinidae: Green Kingfisher

Bucconidae: Pied Puffbird

Ramphastidae: Collared Aracari, Keel-billed Toucan

Picidae: Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Lineated Wookpecker

Furnariidae: Streak-headed Woodcreeper

Thamnophilidae: Western Slaty-Antshrike

Tyrannidae: Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Acadian or Willow Flycatcher, Panama Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird

Tityridae: Masked Tityra, Cinnamon Becard

Vireonidae: Lesser Greenlet

Corvidae: Black-chested Jay, Brown Jay

Troglodytidae: Band-backed Wren, House Wren

Polioptilidae: Tropical Gnatcatcher

Turdidae: Clay-colored Thrush

Coerebidae: Bananaquit

Thraupidae: White-lined Tanager, Passerini´s Tanager, Blue-gray Tanager, Palm Tanager, Plain-colored Tanager, Golden-hooded Tanager, Buff-throated Saltator, Black-headed Saltator

Emberizidae: Thick-billed Seed-Finch, Black-striped Sparrow

Icteridae: Orchard Oriole, Red-Breasted Blackbird, Great-tailed Grackle, Montezuma Oropendola

Fringillidae: Yellow-crowned Euphonia, Olive-backed Euphonia

Mainland Birding - Around Palo Seco National Forest

We spent the most of the day walking trails in the forest. There were creeks with big rocks and fresh clear water, surrounded by great vegetation around and within Palo Seco National Forest. In one of those amazing creeks we saw the Sunbittern which was a most spectacular experience. The abundance of hummingbirds was rather remarkable. We saw a whole exhibition of colors, shapes and birds humming around us.

Some of the highlights of the day:
Sunbittern
Green Hermit
Violet Sabrewing
Buff-rumped Warbler
Double-tooth Kite
Ornate Hawk-Eagle







FAMILY & COMMON NAME

Cracidae: Gray-headed Chachalaca

Accipitridae: Double-toothed Kite, Ornate Hawk-Eagle

Rallidae: White-throated Crake

Eurypygidae: Sunbittern

Columbidae: Pale-vented Pigeon

Apodidae: White-collared Swift

Trochilidae: White-necked Jacobin, Green Hermit, Stripe-throated Hermit, Purple-crowned Fairy, Violet Sabrewing, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, Violet-crowned Woodnymph, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird

Trogonidae: Slaty-tailed Trogon

Ramphastidae: Collared Aracari, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, Keel-billed Toucan

Picidae: Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Lineated Wookpecker, Pale-billed Woodpecker

Furnariidae: Spotted Woodcreeper

Tyrannidae: Mountain Elaenia, Torrent Tyrannulet, Tropical Kingbird, Long-tailed Tyrant

Vireonidae: Lesser Greenlet

Troglodytidae: Bay Wren, House Wren

Turdidae: Mountain Thrush

Parulidae: Buff-rumped Warbler

Thraupidae: Tawny-crested Tanager, Crimson-collared Tanager, Passerini´s Tanager, Blue-gray Tanager, Palm Tanager, Plain-colored Tanager, Emerald Tanager, Silver-throated Tanager, Green Honeycreeper, Buff-throated Saltator

Emberizidae: Thick-billed Seed-Finch, Black-striped Sparrow

Fringillidae: Tawny-capped Euphonia, Olive-backed Euphonia

Mainland Birding - Tower Road

Ramon and Natalia got an early start, walking on a road near the border between the provinces of Bocas del Toro and Chiriquí. This road is one of the limits of the Palo Seco National Forest. The road is in very good condition. It is asphalt with some nice shoulders to stop and enjoy the incredible view of the mountains and the canopy of the magnificent trees. Some of the side trails are clean to walk but are very steep. The morning was great, very clear and sunny, we found and observed a couple of Tawny-capped Euphonias making a nest.

The afternoon was cloudy with some rain and mist, but the birds were especially active when the mist was thick. We observed, before and during the rain, several mixed flocks of Emerald Tanagers, Silver-throated Tanagers and Tropical Parulas.

Some of the highlights today were:

Blue-throated Toucanet
White-throated Mountain-gem
Crimson-collared Tanager
Blue-and-gold Tanager (Look at the comments for more information)
Emerald Tanager
Silver-throated Tanager
Spangle-cheeked Tanager



Birds Seen by Family and Common Name

Cathartidae: Black Vulture

Rallidae: White-throated Crake

Psittacidae: Sulphur-winged Parakeet

Apodidae: White-collared Swift

Trochilidae: Stripe-throated Hermit, Violet Sabrewing, White-throated Mountain-gem

Ramphastidae: Blue-throated Toucanet, Collared Aracari, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, Keel-billed Toucan

Picidae: Black-cheeked Woodpecker

Thamnophilidae: Immaculate Antbird

Tyrannidae: Tufted Flycatcher, Long-tailed Tyrant

Hirundinidae: Blue-and-white Swallow

Troglodytidae: House Wren

Turdidae: Mountain Thrush, Black-faced Solitaire

Parulidae: Tropical Parula, Slate-throated Redstart, Buff-rumped Warbler

Coerebidae: Bananaquit

Thraupidae: Black-and-yellow Tanager, White-lined Tanager, Crimson-collared Tanager, Passerini´s Tanager, Blue-and-gold Tanager, Emerald Tanager, Silver-throated Tanager, Spangle-cheeked Tanager, Buff-throated Saltator

Emberizidae: Thick-billed Seed-Finch, Black-striped Sparrow, Common Bush-Tanager

Cardinalidae: Black-faced Grosbeak

Fringillidae: Tawny-capped Euphonia

Mainland Birding - Cauchero Road

We (Natalia and her friend Clara) took a beautiful morning walk along a quiet country road on the mainland between Almirante and Cauchero.

Here are some of the highlight species we observed:

Crimson-fronted Parakeet
Common Black-Hawk
Great Antshike
Black-cowled Oriole
Black-crowned Tityra Yellow-crowned Euphonia.



Birds Seen by Family and Common Name

Cracidae: Gray-headed Chachalaca

Fregatidae: Magnificent Frigatebird

Cathartidae: Black Vulture, Turkey Vulture

Accipitridae: Common Black-Hawk, Roadside Hawk, Black Hawk-Eagle

Falconidae: Yellow-headed Caracara, Laughing Falcon

Rallidae: White-throated Crake

Columbidae: Pale-vented Pigeon, Short-billed Pigeon, Ruddy Ground-Dove, Blue Ground-Dove

Psittacidae: Crimson-fronted Parakeet, Olive-throated Parakeet, Blue-headed Parrot, Red-lored Parrot

Cuculidae: Groove-billed Ani

Nyctibiidae: Common Potoo

Apodidae: Gray-rumped Swift

Trochilidae: Stripe-throated Hermit

Trogonidae: Violaceous Trogon

Alcedinidae: Green Kingfisher

Ramphastidae: Keel-billed Toucan

Picidae: Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Lineated Wookpecker

Furnariidae: Slaty Spinetail, Plain Xenops, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Long-tailed Woodcreeper

Thamnophilidae: Western Slaty-Antshrike, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Pacific Antwren

Tyrannidae: Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Olive-sided Flycatcher, Tropical Pewee, Dusky-caped Flycatcher, Panama Flycatcher, Great
Kiskadee, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Social Flycatcher, Gray-capped Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird

Cotingidae: Purple-throated Fruitcrow

Tityridae: Black-crowned Tityra, Masked Tityra

Corvidae: Black-chested Jay

Hirundinidae: Purple Martin

Troglodytidae: Bay Wren, House Wren

Polioptilidae: Tropical Gnatcatcher, Long-billed Gnatwren

Turdidae: Clay-colored Thrush

Coerebidae: Bananaquit

Thraupidae: White-lined Tanager, Passerini´s Tanager, Blue-gray Tanager, Palm Tanager, Plain-colored Tanager, Golden-hooded Tanager, Buff-throated Saltator

Emberizidae: Variable Seedeater, Thick-billed Seed-Finch, Yellow-faced Grassquit, Black-striped Sparrow

Cardinalidae: Black-faced Grosbeak

Icteridae: Black-cowled Oriole, Montezuma Oropendola

Fringillidae: Yellow-crowned Euphonia

Wise Words

We had several groups of wonderful families here over the holidays and right into the New Year. Each of the families were truly spending time together. They went on excursions together, they ate meals together, and the spent time together in close proximity for their time here. Some of the families were traveling with older children and had more than one cabana. Others were traveling with younger children and all fit into one cabana. We had couples here amongst it all as well. Just because you don’t have children doesn’t mean that you aren’t a family. Two things come to mind when I think about how our little piece of paradise affects people.

First, a loose quote from one of our guests.

She said that even though all five of them were in one cabana and it was a bit tight, this vacation allowed them all to pull together again. At home, her husband travels and works long hours. The two older girls are in school all day. The baby has her moments to do her own things. Mom manages the house and the family. Here they were just together. No other responsibilities to manage. We took care of their meals, their transportation, and their lodging. The only thing they had to do was be together. They truly reveled in being together.

The second is a portion of a dialogue by George Carlin.

Remember to give a warm hug to the one next to you because that is the only treasure you can give with your heart and it doesn't cost a cent.

Remember, to say,

"I love you"

to your partner and your loved ones, but most of all mean it. A kiss and an embrace will mend hurt when it comes from deep inside of you. Remember to hold hands and cherish the moment for someday that person will not be there again. Give time to love, give time to speak and give time to share the precious thoughts in your mind.

We all live busy lives. It is difficult to remember to just “be” with our family in our crazy every day lives. Sometimes a vacation is a great time to reground your family, whether it be you alone, you and your spouse or partner, or your entire family unit. Happy Saturday!

mangroves in the rain

Area: Close to Tranquilo Bay
Activity: Kayaking & Snorkeling
Weather: Rainy

A great excursion close to Tranquilo Bay is kayaking your way through a series of canals naturally etched in the mangrove forests. When the weather is less than cooperative, this is a nice way to get out and still be within reach of the creature comforts. We paddled a short distance from the dock in an arsenal of sit-on-top kayaks and soaked up a little tropical rain along with the flora and fauna. To me, the rain just enhances the experience and it also reminds you that it is not called the rainforest for nothing. In these enchanted canals you get to see a plethora of wildlife, who don’t take shelter because of the rain but rather go about their daily business. One can see animals such as white faced capuchins, an assortment of birds ranging from Osprey to Kingfishers, upside down jellyfish and of course all types of tropical fish. We donned snorkel and mask and took to the water since we were already wet and swam the edges of the mangrove lagoons. They are rich and diverse,

teaming with life

and allow for vast amounts of time to be spent searching their marvels. Mangroves in the rain shed a little light on what could be just a rainy day.

all to ourselves

Area: Bocas del Toro Archipelago
Activity: Surfing
Weather: Beautiful sunshine...too much sunshine

Even on small days you can find a nice wave in this part of the Caribbean. I was amazed at what we found today. After feeling a bit disappointed by the surf report, we stumbled onto a gem in the rough. This just instilled in me that even when things look bleak, a little perseverance can have the deepest rewards. This is how the day played out. The surf had gone down considerably from previous days so we shot out to the spots that had a chance of holding up under the current conditions. Repeatedly we found nothing that looked like any fun and then the one spot that was a sure thing had ten guys out in the lineup. On our last shot we found a wave that was

uninhabited

, pealing and very clean. Just one problem existed, if you did not make the wave you were in about six inches of water on top of the reef. I was a little upset because everyone else in the group was on body boards and I was the lone stand up surfer. After paddling out and realizing there was no way I was going to chance hurting myself or my board I made my way back to the boat, grabbed a sponge (aka body board) and got back in the lineup. We took turns between the three of us at late drops and fast rides for

almost five hours

with a short break for lunch. The wave was short, committing but a tone of fun and the best part was we never thought it would be there, and of course we had it all to ourselves.

another day in paradise

The swell has dropped around the islands it was decided this day would be about cruising in search of more spots for future surf missions. Equipped with a depth finder, GPS, and charts of the area we fired up the boat and took off. There were squalls on the horizon but the sun was beating down upon us. The winds were howling and the day already had the makings of an epic adventure. First destination, an island named Cayo Agua because of its proximity to open ocean swell and shelter from wind. This island has some wonderful possibility with point and beach breaks. Due to the small swell on this day we only got a taste of what it could be like. However we did witness a few nice sets roll through and peal down the line. This got our bodies quivering with anticipation of what could be when things picked up. Everyone was ready to jump in but the consistency was just not there, another foot quite possibly could have made the difference. Guess we should have been there yesterday. To quell our thirst we shot out to the Zapatilla Cayes in hopes that the outside breaks would be a bit larger and allow us some rides. It was a good decision; we rode a few and went home smiling, another day in paradise.

banana boat

Making our way through the archipelago this morning I pondered the mosaic past of the islands of Bocas del Toro. The boat ride to our destination for the day took us past the many islands and tiny villages that encompass this diverse area. Rich with history and beauty, they have a mystique that hangs over them like the clouds over Volcan Baru. Christopher Columbus sailed through here on his fourth voyage and yet for the next three hundred years the islands did not see much growth. During the late 1800s and early 1900s better known as the colonial era, the area began booming with economic opportunity. Products such as bananas, cocoa, coconut oil, sugar cane and turtle eggs started boosting the local economy. Such growth brought progress to the area, so much so, that the town of Bocas (on Isla Colon) hosted consulates from countries such as Germany, France, England and the United States. As with a lot of Caribbean islands there is an ebb and flow of economic growth and this place has been no different. The islands have laid rather dormant for the last 60 years but lately things have certainly picked up and there is once again a lot happening. One lingering export from the past that can still be seen today is bananas. If you find yourself in the right place, at the right time, you will see one of the gigantic Chiquita banana boats making its way through the channel next to town. It is quite the spectacle - as to the naked eye; one would presume there is not enough water to sustain such a ship.

in search of a clean wave

Area: Carenero Island
Activities: Surfing
Weather: Beautiful, but windy :)

First thing in the morning, after some coffee of course, we looked at the surf report. A nice swell was pushing, 6 to 8 feet with 10-second intervals. Beautiful, the sun is out with those light, fluffy Caribbean clouds lining the horizon but one thing was amiss, the wind. We set out with high hopes of finding some waves on the front side of Bastimentos Island but as we rounded Old Point we were greeted with a strong west wind that had us guessing about our destination. Pushing on in hopes that the break we were headed to might have just enough cover to hold the waves from being blown out. Upon our arrival it was apparent that the choppy water was just not going to serve for a day of surfing. Bobbing in the water like a coconut headed to some remote outpost, we all sat down to make a decision. It was decided to make a run for Carenero, a nice spot close to Isla Colon that we knew for sure was sheltered from the wind. The ride was worth it, stunning views of the front side of Bastimentos and a clean wave to enjoy the day on.

storm of color

Area: Zapatilla Cayes, Bocas del Toro, Panama
Activities: Walking, Swimming, Beachcombing, Relaxing
Weather: Gorgeous!

The sky has turned to blue. In this part of the world, rain takes on a different meaning and you begin to become accustomed to it especially as it is the start of the of one of the wetter times of year. Today however the sky has opened and with it my idea of just how picture perfect the view in front of me really is. Blues and greens in every shade known to the human eye, it is a storm of color replacing the thunder and rain of the last few days. After some eggs, toast, jam and strong coffee we were off to soak up the day. A boat, some ocean kayaks and snorkel gear and we were off to explore the turquoise waters of the Zapatilla Cayes that reside in the Bastimentos National Marine Park. After a short walk around the island to survey our surroundings we decided it was time to cool off. So we went for a swim – over and over again. This how the day went and it was hard to imagine ever wanting to leave but as the shadows crept closer and the sun let its grip go we knew it was time, there is always tomorrow.

education and enlightenment

Area: Bocas del Toro, Panama (Mainland Panama)
Activities: Chocolate Farm Tour & Chance Ocelot Sighting
Weather: Sunny and Windy

After a very filling breakfast of Pixbae Pancakes (made from scratch) it was decided that our morning excursion was going to be a visit to a chocolate farm on the mainland called Green Acres. This beautiful farm is owned by Dave and Linda Cerutti who came to Panama from San Diego almost ten years ago. The boat ride out was breezy and allowed us to shake off some of the heat that persistently resides close to the shores of these lowland Caribbean islands.

After our arrival and introduction we were treated to something special, something that could not be planned. Dave had apparently saved an Ocelot as a cub from a life of imprisonment in a nearby town. He had seen it in a cage and offered to buy the cat so she could be set free. Now she lives in the jungle however, she occasionally comes for a visit to the farm. This relationship you have to see to believe. So, there we were getting ready for our tour, when out of the foliage comes this magnificent animal strolling towards us in a very nonchalant manner. We were all awestruck and frozen because it was not expected nor could one ever be ready for such an approach. I just about passed out when it started rubbing and licking my leg. After an explanation from Dave and Linda we let our guard down and enjoyed the company of this truly wild animal.



The next course of events were almost as inspiring, I had no idea the process it takes to get the Cacao bean to the point of consumption that we all know and love, that wonderful thing called chocolate. This was truly a day filled with education and enlightenment, the kind you only get by traveling through this mystic and mysterious part of the world.

base camp or temporary office?

Area: Zapatilla Cay, Bocas del Toro, Panama
Activities: Snorkel, kayak, swim
Weather: Sunny and clear and glassy seas

Sunrise this morning was incredible and the Caribbean’s surface was like a mirror. I could see my reflection in the water while driving 30 Mph over its surface, beautiful. The air was crisp and the Talamanca Mountains were crystal clear, backed by white streaks across a blue sky. Neil and Sue arrived in Bocas del Toro on the morning flight at 8:00 AM; their flight must have been beautiful. Their mission was to escape fall in Birmingham, England, and enjoy a week of adventure in Panama. I am sure they were admiring the clear panoramic view of Panama’s mountains and beaches during their flight. I would have been scanning the oceans surface for schools of tuna, or whale sharks.

We arrived to Tranquilo Bay Eco Adventure Lodge at about 9:45 AM and Neil and Sue were ready to “get on with it”. We had our lunches prepared and packed for the beach, and then loaded the boat with kayaks and snorkel gear. We made it to Zapatilla Cay, a small island in Bastimentos National Marine Park, about 10:30 AM.

We unpacked the boat and set up our temporary office for the day. Three chairs and two igloo coolers, under just about any shade tree, makes a great office. Once base camp was fully operational, we wasted no time getting in the water to snorkel. Neil and Sue instantly fell in love with the water temperature. We chose to snorkel a wall section just off the Eastern tip of the Island. The visibility wasn’t perfect, but the fish were sure cooperating. We saw several big schools of snapper, and one of the biggest yellow tail snapper I have ever seen. There were blue schools of doctor and surgeonfish, neon blue spotted yellow tailed damsels, purple and gold Spanish hogfish, parrot fish, angelfish, butterfly fish, and wrasses. It was a great swim.

Snorkeling for about an hour and a half can work up an appetite, so we returned to the office to eat lunch. On the beach picnic menu today was a roast beef sandwich with mozzarella cheese, lettuce and tomato on fresh baked olive focacia bread followed by homemade peanut butter cookies. From under our carefully chosen shade tree, we ate our lunch while looking across the beach and over the turquoise hued Caribbean, to the Talamanca Mountains in the distance.

Feeling rejuvenated, we decided to circumnavigate Zapatilla Cay by kayak. The leeward side of the island was calm; we paddled through several schools of feeding Bar Jacks, who appeared to have fresh glass minnows on their lunch menu. A few hungry hound fish also decide to jump in on the buffet. We saw brown pelicans, black hawks, kingfishers, magnificent frigates, terns, and humming birds feeding on the blooming sea grapes. The almond trees were also in bloom and attracting birds of all sorts. On the windward side of the Island we paddled further out over the coral reef shelf and watched schools of brilliantly colored tropical fish scurry for the safety of the ledge.

Our return to base camp, to tap the igloo for some ice cold drinks, was just in time. For the next two hours we just sat in the water and watched an electrical storm brew in the mountains far away. The lightning bolts were spectacular and a rainbow aura of the full color spectrum blew off the tops of the highest clouds. What a befitting ending to an incredible day.

volunteer repair work @ bastimentos national marine park

Tranquilo Bay volunteered to do some dock repair work at Bastimentos National Marine Park. In recent months, in two different places, trees had fallen across the elevated wooden walking trail named Sendero Interprativo El Boque Detras del Arrecife on Zapatilla Key (translated as forest path within the coral reef). With permission from Hernandez Bonilla, ANAM’s Chief Park Engineer (which makes him the head of all protected areas here in Bocas del Toro for Panamas equivalent of the EPA), and coordination efforts from park employees, Blanford Constantino, Samuel Jimenez and Richard Hinz the date was set to make the repairs.

Our employees, Enrique Robinson, July Robinson and Adalberto Baker gathered up the necessary tools to fix the broken walkways and we set off in one of our boats for the Zapatilla Cayes. Upon arrival at the park we were met by Samuel and Richard. Samuel went about his regular duties of collecting park entrance fees and Richard accompanied the volunteers and helped with the repairs.

The first damaged spot was the worst. Four posts had been driven over a foot down into the soil by the weight of a fallen tree. Two car jacks had to be used to return them to the correct level. The lumber that was used to make the walkway is called Nespero. This is a particularly hard wood and much time was spent just pulling nails out of it and putting new ones in. About six nails were bent to each one that got put in. The first repair was finished at about 12:30 pm.

No one had expected the job to take so long and we still had another spot to fix. Coconut milk and coconut meat served as lunch.

The second damaged area was not as bad. Only two posts had been pushed down by a second fallen tree. The pulling and driving of nails was still a problem, but in the end the walkway was returned to its original state.

The crew packed up and headed back to Tranquilo Bay at about 4 pm.

Mr. Bonilla was coming out the following day to meet with his employees and have a look at the repairs.

bar fight with my father in law

Excursion: Tarpon Fishing
Area: Bocas del Toro, Panama
Weather: Overcast morning, sunny afternoon

Its not often you get to throw your 68-year old father-in-law into a bar fight and then stand around taunting him as he is getting his butt kicked. Today I would have just that chance, and I can’t say that I haven’t been looking forward to the show.

My wife’s father, Charlie, has taught me much about business and life over the last 17 years, but today, he was in my world, Tarponville.

Jay and I had previously hatched a plan long in preparation. Little did Charlie know that we were to be the anglers and he was to be the fish. We figured with just the right amount of shame and a dash of sarcasm, we could have him chomping at the bit to catch a Panama Silver King. You see, Charlie hasn’t fished in over 20 years, and he has never caught anything larger than a red snapper. Those who have tangled with a Tarpon over 75 pounds know what old Charlie was in for, but he had no idea.

Prior to his Panama vacation, we chummed the waters a little. Due to his long break from fishing, it was easy to stoke the fire and get him all excited. We told a few outlandish fish tales for the old man and sprinkled in a few photos, which were received with a very sarcastic show me attitude I might add. It is not easy to find these days, but our bait was a new Central American Tarpon discovery all to ourselves. Who could resist?

Poor Charlie, he sucked it down like a hog taking a truffle. After reviewing the Tranquilo Bay tarpon photo galleries on the website, Charlie decided he wanted to catch a world class Central America Tarpon in Panama.

As we pulled up to the area, it couldn’t have been staged better on a movie set. Tarpon were rolling everywhere. Charlie’s eyes got big like a deer in the headlights. He said, “that’s amazing, I had no idea they got that big.” At one point, a pack of at least 30 Tarpon came bulldogging by the boat, clearly agitated about something. A few minutes later we saw the fin and back of about a 5-foot long shark in hot pursuit. The surface action was furious, but the bite had not quite started.

After a short while we had our first chance, I handed Charlie a rod with a screaming drag, then abruptly yelled in his ear to get the blood flowing. “FISH ON!” For the next twenty minutes Jay and I sat there drinking a cold beer while taking turns shouting out sage advice. “Keep that rod tip up”, “keep the pressure on him”, “put your back into it”, what fun.

Charlie’s knees were quivering, and sweat was pouring down his face. This was serious business, because for Charlie, there was more on the line than just another fish. He knew he had to do whatever it would take to pull that Tarpon up out of the water, showing the two young bucks how a “MAN” does it. Well, he would just have to wait, that fish turned out to be a 30 pound Jack Crevalle, not the Trophy Tarpon he was looking for.

About one hour later it happened, the drag started screaming and before we could even get the rod out of the holder, a huge Tarpon went flying 10 feet into the air. Charlie had found what he came to Panama looking for, and so had we. “FISH ON!” Jay looked at me and appropriately said, “Let the games begin.”

For 40 minutes Charlie battled this incredible Tarpon in Bocas del Toro, without another boat in site. Jay and I stood by for the show, knowing that Charlie’s 68 years of experience and wisdom would not help him get that fish to the boat. The instructions were flying, “keep that rod tip up, put your back into it.” As he danced around that boat sweating, praying, and cursing we new exactly how he felt. It’s a bar fight.

After all was said and done, we caught several Jack Crevalle, and four Tarpon. Charlie finally said enough, but he didn’t get his butt kicked. He has a victory picture with his 80-pound Tarpon, proof to the world he showed two young bucks how it is done, but I don’t think he will be stepping back into another Panama Tarpon brawl anytime soon.

searching for a silver king with Mo

Excursion: Tarpon fishing
Area: Bocas del Toro, Panama
Weather: Light showers sunny and warm

Today David “Mo” Moseley wanted to search for the “Silver King”. We left the dock at 6:15 AM and the conditions were favorable with two-foot seas and little to no wind. As the sun was coming up, it looked like it was going to be overcast. We passed through a few light showers on the way to our first location. There were light showers on and off throughout the morning, and it started to look like it might get heavier. It never did, and by mid morning it just stopped, we even got a little bit of sunshine.

Well, the weather may not have been perfect, but the fishing couldn’t have been better. We jumped ten Tarpon, and two of them were real brutes. The biggest was a solid 150 pounds, and we got a great picture of her at boat side. Everyone on the boat landed a big fish, and Mo had several nice Silver Kings under his belt.

There were large schools of bait getting smashed by what looked like Jack Crevalle and Bonita. Throughout the day we caught several big Jack Crevalle along with the Tarpon, the action was constant without a dull moment.

After we all agreed that enough was enough, we reluctantly started our return to Tranquilo Bay. While leaving with the bite still on, we watched with envy as the Pelicans, Brown Boobies, and Magnificent Frigates dove into patches of nervous bait, wishing we weren’t too tired to battle another Tarpon.

accidents happen

Excursion: Rio Mananti Exploration
Area: Rio Mananti, Bocas del Toro, Panama
Weather: Clear skies sunny and warm

This is David Moseley’s fourth trip to Tranquilo Bay; hence we have learned that he has an insatiable appetite for two things, exploration and fishing. When you put the two together, he seems to be in another world, but then again, maybe this time he was.

The archipelago of Bocas del Toro is one strange place. After 8 years of exploration one would expect a sense of normalcy to set in, well, it never has. Not for me, and not for David, who has visited a unique and different area on each of his explorations in Bocas del Toro. He always asks, “Where does it all end? Well David, perhaps it never does, I am still looking for the answer.

Today we (me, David, Jay & our friend John) went up a river that was not on the map. The discovery was a complete accident, but this is precisely how we have made some of our most unique discoveries.

We had set out to explore the Rio Mananti which is on the map, however, within a kilometer of that river were three small river mouths converging in one bay. This was characteristic of the area we were looking for and therefore temporarily fooled us.

What a great surprise, the scenery was stunning. There were huge stands of White, Black, and Red Mangroves whose roots entered the river from its banks to soak up the brackish water. Just after the mouth, the little river was completely enclosed by canopy. Multiple species of hardwood trees, palms, bamboos, bromeliads, orchids, and vines engulfed all space.

The wildlife was incredible, we immediately spotted three species of Kingfishers, multiple species of Herons and Cranes, and later a Collared Aracari. We saw a huge Green Basilisk lizard fall into the river from a tree branch and proceeded to “walk on water” all the way to the riverbank. His transition from water to land was seamless.
After just a few kilometers we came upon a Ngobe Bugle Indian woman fishing from her cayuco, a type of hand made dugout canoe crafted from a single tree. She had ten or so fish, representing several different species of beautiful Cichlids. She also informed us that we were up the Rio Koy, not the Rio Mananti.

Anyhow, not a bad accident if you ask me. One thing is for certain, we will be going back to the Rio Koy.

It is difficult to find the Rio Mananti because its mouth is a maze of multiple entrances, all well guarded by large sand and soft bottom flats. One had better know the local tides, and we were there on a rise allowing us to safely backtrack for several hours. After navigating some awfully skinny water for several kilometers, we just couldn’t find a way in. After disturbing multiple pods of bait, we decided that was enough searching, and that it was time to fish.

David Moseley a.k.a. “Mo”, owns a website called Wadefishing.com, and I want to let you know that he travels prepared to do just that anywhere he goes. After outfitting our crew with the latest in wade fishing technology, we hit the flats.

For about an hour we waded the sand bars and soft bottom flats in front of the various river mouths. There were huge schools of bait in the water, and right off the bat Jay thinks he sees a Tarpon. He couldn’t really pursue, because he had the boat tied off to his waist and was towing it along while he fished. The fish was fining and made its way over to John, but he was just out of range, and never got the fish to turn. We were casting these sweet Shimano bait casting set ups that Mo brought with all different kinds of baits. We threw plastics, crank baits, and top water plugs. We spooked several fish while wading, but never made a positive identification. We landed a couple of nice Jack Crevalle.

While fishing, we spotted a cayuco going in through a little obscure cut we had not yet tried, we quickly hopped in the boat to follow, knowing that sometimes a little local knowledge is the only way. Finally, and without getting stuck, we made our way into one of the branches of the Rio Mananti. With the help of a family, who was farming a small piece of land on the riverbank, we drove around exploring a few of the river forks and found the main branch.

With the sun low in the sky, we decided to save that adventure for Mo’s next trip to Panama, and asked ourselves again, where does it all end?

bahia honda kayak

Today I accompanied Joel and Lauren from Boston on a kayak trip to paddle Bahia Honda Creek. The weather was overcast and cool, with a couple of little showers throughout the day. Just as we entered the mangrove entrance at the mouth of the creek, we were swooped on by two different species of kingfisher birds. There are at least three different species of mangrove on this creek bank and some of the specimens are at the top of their size limit. The canopy forms as red, black, and white mangroves converge overhead forming a bridge for animals to pass over the creek. We stopped and watched a mother 3-toed sloth cross directly above us as her baby clung to her belly. We also spotted several speckled caiman and took some great photos. After our paddle, it was off to see some Caligo butterflies at La Loma. During a short hike at La Loma, we spotted another sloth carrying a baby, several lizards and some amphibians. Joel and Lauren just couldn’t get enough, so when we returned home, we hiked for another hour and a half at Tranquilo Bay. The birding was excellent, we encountered gold collared manakins, tityras, pale vented pigeons, Montezuma oropendolas, lineated woodpeckers, red lored amazons, and blue headed parrots. Lauren practiced her macro photography and took some nice shots of poison dart frogs, leaf cutter ants, and a beautiful cicada. Believe it or not, Joel and Lauren still had enough energy to go take a swim, but then again, it was their last day.

punta valiente hike

We made a trip to Punta Valiente, which is located in the Nogbe Bugle Indian Reservation, with clients Joel and Lauren. We first visited the small (fifty inhabitants) Nogbe village named Punta Valiente. In the village we visited the school, where the children were happy to have there photos taken and we then traded a couple of bags of ice for some bread fruit and plantains. The villagers were very grateful for the ice. We then contracted one of the elder villagers, Constantino, to guide us to the top of a two hundred meter hill behind the village. The trail we walked passes through the villages food crops. As we walked Constantino pointed out all of the vegetation that they planted. Such things as otoi, dashine, yucca, plantains(several varieties), cocoa, bananas(several varieties), bread fruit, coconuts and a variety of other tropical fruits. At the peak of the hill we were shown the ruins of an abandoned U.S. Military radio/lookout tower. The tower was installed during WW2. Also at the peak our guide cut down some young coconuts and obliged us to try the water inside to quench our thirst. This water is referred to as agua de pipa. It is very refreshing and we all enjoyed taking a moment to look out at the ocean and see the village from this vantage point. This excursion took about two hours and afterwards we got back in the boat and headed for another even smaller Indian village called Ensenada. Here we stopped to eat our lunch and make the short hike across this portion of the peninsula to a beach. We ate our lunch on the covered porch of the local grocery store and visited with the locals about current events in the province. The walk over to the beach was about fifteen minutes, and well worth it. The sun came out for us and we enjoyed swimming in the surf for more than an hour before we returned to the boat for the forty minute return trip to Tranquilo Bay.

sea turtle study and tagging

Doctors Anne & Peter Meylan have been studying the sea turtle population here in Bocas del Toro for some time now. Peter spent one night with us here at Tranquilo Bay. Jim took him back to the Zapatilla Cayes where he was studying the turtles and was fortunate enough to participate in the data collection and tagging process for a group of three turtles.