Thursday, December 20, 2007

all to ourselves

Area: Bocas del Toro Archipelago
Activity: Surfing
Weather: Beautiful sunshine...too much sunshine

Even on small days you can find a nice wave in this part of the Caribbean. I was amazed at what we found today. After feeling a bit disappointed by the surf report, we stumbled onto a gem in the rough. This just instilled in me that even when things look bleak, a little perseverance can have the deepest rewards. This is how the day played out. The surf had gone down considerably from previous days so we shot out to the spots that had a chance of holding up under the current conditions. Repeatedly we found nothing that looked like any fun and then the one spot that was a sure thing had ten guys out in the lineup. On our last shot we found a wave that was
uninhabited
, pealing and very clean. Just one problem existed, if you did not make the wave you were in about six inches of water on top of the reef. I was a little upset because everyone else in the group was on body boards and I was the lone stand up surfer. After paddling out and realizing there was no way I was going to chance hurting myself or my board I made my way back to the boat, grabbed a sponge (aka body board) and got back in the lineup. We took turns between the three of us at late drops and fast rides for
almost five hours
with a short break for lunch. The wave was short, committing but a tone of fun and the best part was we never thought it would be there, and of course we had it all to ourselves.

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